Let’s face it: the hype about travel in Albania generally and this mountain region in particular has grown exponentially in the last few years. I don’t know for sure, but I believe that Albania was one of the first countries to open up its borders for travels in the year of Covid, and sure enough there was an influx of travelers and influencers whose feedback and reports have snowballed to the current point.
Interestingly, the Albanian side of the Accursed Mountains (also dubbed “Albanian Alps”) had been on my radar before, and in fact were on my Belgrade-Salonica itinerary for the infamous Summer of 2020. Again I don’t remember the details, but surely the iconic picture of the church in Theth had something to do with it.
THE iconic image. Photo credit: turismoalbania.es
Fastforward to my 2023 Balkan trip, the fear of the crowds made me consider giving the Vaobona Theth hike a pass in favor of more secluded hiking in Pellister, North Macedonia. But thankfully I did go, and this post is meant to present an honest review of what to expect from it.
Why go?
- Well, it IS beautiful after all. You’ll be amazed by the scenery if you have limited experience with big mountains like Alps, Pyrenees or Rockies. I do, and was still stunned by the Theth side. (Despite spending an extra day for a peak hike, I didn’t find the Valbona side so amazing….perhaps the lack of water?)
- The Koman-Fierze boat trip is a nice add on, even if after the second hour you’re anxious to get off the boat.
- It’s a social experience. You’ll be with like-minded travelers in the van, in the boat, in your guesthouse…and on the actual hike. As a solo traveler, I did enjoy that: small talk with the ever present Spaniards, political talk over dinner with Igor, a Basque separatist, and hours of conversation on the actual hike with Darren, a Londoner who’s been bouncing around the world since January.
- No orientation issues: one road, then a well sign-posted trail that everyone is following.
- But perhaps the biggest selling point of this trek is how easy it is to plan and carry out a valley to valley traverse without being an experienced hiker. Drop most of your luggage at your guesthouse in Skhoder, then let the folks at Berisha taxi you (van-boat-van) to Valbona and back from Theth. And, in between, enjoy two beautiful valleys, comfortable guesthouse accommodation, a scenic mountain hike you can write home about boasting 900m positive elevation gain, and, why not, an additional day hike that most people choose to do on the Theth side. (Incidentally, I spent an extra day in Valbona, where I climbed technically easy but strenuous Maja Rosit peak.)
Caveats
Of course, the crowds. If you don’t start early enough, you’ll be constantly passing other hikers or being passed by them. The feeling of being herded from one transport to another, instead of you finding your own way.
Who is this for?
Pretty much anyone in reasonable hiking shape. (The climb is steep and can be relentless in the heat). Experienced hikers will feel the call of the Peaks of the Balkans trek, that takes this hike as one of its stages.
What if you’re not up for the actual hike? IMHO, just spend 2-3 days in Theth. Valbona is nice, but you’ll take your strolls on the road. Theth has more accessible paths and easy but beautiful walks you can do.
Recommendations
- Start early, as they say in most websites and YouTube channels. In Summer, you’ll minimize the crowds and heat. In Spring or Fall, you’ll give yourself more buffer time in the unlikely event that anything goes wrong.
- Wear trail runners. Yep – you can’t believe how many people I saw slipping and sliding on ordinary running shoes. Do yourself a favor and take some on your travels. They arwe equally comfortable but will give you more grip and support.
- Carry as little weight as you can. That means ONE set of clothing for town, ONE for hiking time. Water is necessary but you can also fill your bottle in two mountain cafés on the way.
- Give some attention to the location of your guesthouse. Both towns are prettuy spread out, so consider how much extra walking you’d like to do when leaving/arriving, plus access to shops and restaurants, etc.
- Budget tip. I booked my Theth-Skhoder transport via my guesthouse and paid 10€. Shortly after, I saw vans leaving from the main restaurant/supermarket parking lot with signs saying 3€. Worth asking about!
In conclusion…
The Valbona-Theth hike is still worth your consideration. There are so many places of equal or superior beauty in the Alps or the Pyrenees, but hey, this makes for a neat, easy to plan 3-4 active travel excursion that can be combined with other great destinations such as the Albanian South or, as I did, Ohrid in North Macedonia and Montenegro.
B-Side Travels 