As I’m writing this more than a month after my 2023 Balkan trip, my heart and mind still escape to Ohrid, North Macedonia. To the beautiful old town with it’s plethora of byzantine churches, to the trails in Galicica National Park and, above all, to the omnipresent lake.
For an active, independent traveler, discovering the Ohrid region can be so diverse an experience that I’ve found it hard to find a thread for this post. Present a number of images? Argue that it’s one of Europe’s most underrated travel destinations?
In the end, I’m going with ways of moving around: Walk, hike run, ride a bike, swim, SUP….all of it in cool, pleasant temperatures, far from the hell on earth I encountered in Tirana or Skhoder.
- Walk
No – I never got tired of walking in Ohrid. My accommodation was about 1 km away from the old town, so there was plenty of walking to and from it on the seaside promenade. Never bored with the views of the old town, the mountains, and the plentiful opportunities for people watching.
And, of course, I never had enough of St John at Kaneo, the iconic image of Ohrid. One of the most beautiful places I have experienced in my life, and where I saw a man proposing to a woman. I reckon her answer was yes – how could it be no when in a place like this.
The last day, when I thought I’d see it all, I discovered the Muslim quarter, with its mosques and kebab joints.
- Hike
As if walking to, from, and in Ohrid’s old town wasn’t enough, I ventured out to Velestovo (10 minute taxi ride) to bag an easy peak in Galicica national park, Tri Maci. Great trails, nice views, and friendly conversation with locals, who offered me some mountain tea.
- Run
By now, you probably know that my journeys are incomplete without some running. So that’s what I did first thing on my first full day in Ohrid. Promenade, then board walk, mandatory stop at St John’s before hitting beautiful forest trails, more churches and the famous Greek amphitheatre.
- Scooter ride
That same day, I picked up my rental scooter and headed for St Naum monastery, some 30 km away. St Naum was the excuse to tour the lake and aim for some of the best beaches.
The bike lacked horsepower (I was stuck with a 50 cc scooter), but I stil enjoyed ride in cool temperatures. I stopped at a random parking lot and hiked down to a wild, lonely beach where I enjoyed my first swim of the day. Good thing I did, as shortly after I saw Gradishte beach, where I originally intended to stop, and it was absolutely packed with families.
St Naum was also packed, but somehow that wasn’t a problem. The premises include a beach, docks for incoming boats, restaurants and shops. And, of course, the monastery, surrounded by lush greenery and freshwater springs. On the way back, I parked my bike for a fun discovery walk I’ve written about here.
- Swim
Cool, crystal clear freshwater, fish, views at a solitary beach. I swam in the morning and, again, at sunset time, with a cold beer ready to hand.
- SUP
Finally – I thought. I’ll break the spell and have the stars aligned for a debut in stand up paddleboard (SUP), something I’ve always wanted to try. So I contacted the local SUP club, got schedules and quotes, and had my mind set on that two hour sunset tour offering the best views of St John, the old town and the mountains.
But of course it never happened. Perhaps I was too tired and fulfilled from the other activities. Oh and, choppy waters on what seemed to be the right afternoon. Like catching the bus for Bitola, it was just not meant to be.
Oh well.
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Want to know more?
Write up from two of my favourite bloggers:
https://www.bucketlistly.blog/posts/north-macedonia-backpacking-itinerary
https://www.budgetbucketlist.com/ohrid.html
Where to stay?
Ristak apartments. Great location. Friendliest hosts I’ve met.
B-Side Travels 