Get out and about – that’s pretty much what you feel when in Zalbjak, at the foot of the beautiful Durmitor National Park.

I had been told by Koko, the very friendly owner of Pirate Hostel in Ulcinj. If you want jagged, go to Prokletije, the Accursed Mountains. But if you want beautiful, go to Durmitor.
And beautiful we did find it. Cool, too, on the edge of our comfort zone, as we turned on the heaters in our cabin.
Zalbjak is a very convenient location for outdoor enthusiasts – even those without their own wheels. Rent a cabin for a couple of days and you’ll be walking distance of beautiful Crno Jezero, the Black Lake. (Tip: take a side trail to avoid paying a steep entry fee of 5 euro). But not only that, there are other lakes and peaks that can be easily accessed in the area.



After a quick wikiloc search we headed for another lake, Jablan Jezero, where we enjoyed a half day panoramic route. It was easy, it was scenic and, to top it off, clever F. had packed a couple of beers that had somehow remained cold. Cheers!


And then of course, there’s rafting in the Tara canyon. Allegedly, the waters were quieter than ideal for the sport, but the views of the canyon justified the 60 euro price of the excursion (shuttle, gear and guide included).


Back to town, there was always time for strolls, celebratory coffees or drinks and, sure thing, hunting our favoirite pastry at the local pekara.

