Istanbul is a striking place. Not exactly beautiful or, rather, not consistently so, but still mesmerizing as you wrap your head around its many, diverse places and – no less so – its history.


I initially considering calling this post “Images of Istambul” but, really, it’s more about specific experiences we enjoyed. No coherent narrative just yer, but I can assure you that I’m already missing the place and am yearning to be back.
One. The bustling atmosphere of Kadikoy, one of the most visited Asian neighborhoods. We were there with good weather, on our first and last days, and enjoyed our first stroll in Asia.

Two. Entering Hagia Sophia together with the Muslim faithful. No, it was not just about saving 25 euro per person, the tourist fee to access the mosque starting 2024. We had been given the tip to enter the temple as muslims, and gesture “we want to pray” if we asked. It wasn’t even necessary. The sky opened above our heads and the downpour sped up all checks as we all ran for cover. Once inside, we walked respectfully, taking in the beauty while feeling the soggy clothing on us. It was moving. Constantinople, Bizantium…history.


Three. Views from the boat, from the many boats we took. Istanbul’s system of public transport is generally very efficient, but the boats are spectacularly so: cheap, punctual, and offering phenomenal views. Of course we took the short Bosphorus tour, but I am partial to the views of Eminonu and the Galata Bridge on entering or leaving the Golden Horn.


Four. The taste of tea, omnipresent. We had it on the boats, with baklava, as an excuse to use toilets in cafes, and during our evening encounters with Yusuf, who attended the front desk in our guesthouse in Cihangir and, in his modest English, told us about faraway towns in Anatolia.

Five. Surprises along the way. We enjoyed some of the quiet mosques more than the famous ones: Sokullu in Sultanahmet and Rustem Pasha in Eminomu. At Vefa Kilisa, en route to Suleimani, we discovered Bizantine mosaics. In that same area, we tried boza at the famous Vefa Bozacisi, and were offered some toasted chick-peas to throw in it by a Turkish family. Incidentally, the word boza lies at the origin of the English word “booze”, according to one interpretation.


Six. Cats galore! I d’nt remembe reading anywhere that Istanbul is a city of cats. It’s not that they’re tolerated: they are fed and petted everywhere. No wonder they won’t even move a whisker as you walk by them. In a park, we even found accommodation boxes for them!


Seven. The Tahtakale shopping district, so bizarre, and a million times more fun than either the spice or grand bazaars.


Eight.Baklava. We enjoyed baklava every single day, washed down by – you guessed it – Turkish tea. Tasty, energetic bite before resuming our rambles.

Nine. Our walks to and from our accommodation. Cihangir and Cukurcuma neighborhoods, Beyoglu. Ugly, beautiful, hipster, bizarre. More on this to come!


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