Heraclitus goes island hopping

Tropical Island hoppings make me think of the Heraclitus quotation: No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man. Indeed, the basic concept is the same: plan, prep, pay and enjoy. But then there’s all the contingent factors: the weather (of course), the company, and, perhaps above all, the place you’re in with respect to yourself and your travel companions. 

Take K and my 2024 trip to the Philippines, which was basically an island-hopping-centric one. Island hoppings were on the menu in our three destinations: Siargao, Dinagat and Malapascua islands. Trips on and off the beaten track, with logistics ranging from no brainer to complex planning.

And, of course, there was the hype. As reported here before, this traveler had enjoyed some of the best island hoppings on offer in Palawan and, let’s face it, there was a tinge of anxiety about whether K. would love it as much as I had. 

Talk about expectations and and reality. After careful planning and contacts with other travelers, day 2 of our trip was to be devoted to an epic Siargao three island + Mam’on tour. That’s perhaps the perfect combination of nearby, easy access small islands and what appeared to be a paradise a mere hour of navigation away. 

Well, change of plans. At the tourist office cum pier, introductions made, the staff told us it was too windy for Mam-on;  we were supposed to stick to the tri-island tour. Oh well. Luckily, we were out before most boats and had Naked island, the first stop on the trip, almost to ourselves. Plus, some of the clouds cleared and we enjoyed some epic swims under the morning sun. The trip had been worth it, we smiled, now we can relax and enjoy the ride. 

I had read so much about tri island that it was almost a matter of scientific interest to compare expectations to reality. Naked was meant for a short stop, ideally before sunset, and I already told you how it worked for us.  Daku, the largest, was supposed to be uninteresting, but we had a glorious afternoon swim. And by the time we got to Guyam, most people’s favourite, we were so tired of swimming and snorkeling that we just sat down at a restaurant shack and enjoyed a cold one and their famous Guyam burger. 

Speaking of Mam-on, the following day we assembled a smaller crew and hired a boat and skipper from a nearby less commercial town, Dapa, that would take us to our promised land, the expected “paradise”. Well, what can I say: here reality exceeded expectation. We couldn’t believe our eyes as we were approaching Mam-on and neighboring La Januza: the clear bright turquoise water, the stunning white sand, the towering palm trees. Nobody in sight. It was hot, but we found shade under a tree and rested in between glorious swims and photo shoots.  

Still, I remember that day with mixed feelings. K got mad at me over lunch after I made several condescending corrections to several things she said. I guess I was in a weird headspace after the pressure of getting the first days of the trip right,  and definitely not in the mood for sustained interaction with strangers. So it goes.   

There was definitely much more island hopping to report on in Dinagat island, the central part of our trip, but that deserves a separate entry that will come in due time. Plus, the last part of our trip offered what is one of the most iconic experiences on offer in the Philippines: Kalanggaman island, with its famous sandbar. 

And sure, it was OK. You read well, O.K. Had it been at the start of the trip, we’d had given the day a solid 9. But not after Mam’on and Dinagat. We got to the island as the tide was rising, with not that much of a sandbar to enjoy. And this one was crowded – not terribly so, but there must have been around 20 boats of different sizes by the end of the morning. Still, we enjoyed the crazy water colors, a short walk on the sandbar, and a swim or three offering decent snorkel. The trip was pricey, but it included a delicious lunch including fresh grilled fish, chicken, pork adobo and salad. Yummy on the boat.

In hindsight, we wondered why on earth all tours left Malapascua at 9 instead of earlier. We could have walked on a longer sandbar, and we could definitely have spent longer on the island. Glad we went, but won’t go back. 

On the way back most people dozed off, including K. Not me. I was listening to music, probably brooding about how Malapascua island was my least favourite destination after two trips to this country, and why the hell we had chosen to devote five days to it. At some point me and and a lucky few saw dolphins swimming under a beautiful afternoon sun, with huge Leyte island in the backdrop. So much for ruminations and ego trips. 

So yes, the basic outline may be the same every time. But it’s just that, an outline, and it’s a matter of weather, luck, attitude and headspace what the final story reads like.